David's Blog

Cap D Ambre

admin — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 07:37:50 +0000

Every time I crossed the shoulder of a hill I was hoping that finally I would be there, but no, this island was going to drag it out. Rivers and swamps were the order of the day. One becomes so desperate in a way that weirdly you are just km from the end and a crazy thought pops up. “If it’s not over the next hill, that’s it I have had it, i am “Gat voll” I am just going to turn around” I was just so tired and hungry. The mud and rain was getting the better of me, I was just going through the motions of stumbling forward. Something caught my eye, I squinted and looked up into the morning sky, and there it was in the distance, this massive white column with a black cap. Cape d, Ambre light house, my spirit lifted I could feel the energy flow back into my body as I screamed within. I now knew I was going to make it.
The path twisted over the forested dune range, the red mud had now given way to white sand and thick vegetation.
I came into a little village, the last one on the island, chickens scattered and scrawny dogs sauntered away with their tails between their legs heading for shelter under the huts as if I was going to beat them, the odd villager darted for shelter looking back with a quick glance at this alien. Ahead of me stood and elderly man, a bright sarong wrapped around his waist and a straw hat on his head. He had a strange look about him, there was something different. He looked at me smiling , lifted his right arm and pointed to a path to my left and said Cape D Ambre, turning he waved and walked off behind a hut. I shook my head as if I was imagining something, was my mind starting to play with me.
I followed the path as it now wound down the dune to the light house, the vegetation parted giving way to open grass and there dead ahead stood the massive light house. I just sunk to my knees, over come by this. All alone I kneeled in the grass just staring ahead not really knowing what was going through my mind. I got up, slowly walking to the little rise with the light house propped on it, the ocean lay all around me, there were little islands to my right, and there was no one, not a sole. A few zebus grazed on the waters edge. Finally reaching the edge of the island, I was forced to stop by the ocean. I could go no further, nor could I hold my emotion any more, I looked down at my feet at the tears fell from my eyes, one by one bursting on the rock around me and mixing with the ocean.

I just need sleep

admin — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 07:37:33 +0000

It was now 2-30 in the morning I had been going for about 14 hours, exhorted, wet and hungry, I had to rest. There was no village in sight. I had stopped many a time to listen for animal sounds or the tell tale chicken crow , nothing. There were no lights, not even the smell of smoke from a cooking fire. Eventually I was forced to stop on the edge of a mangrove swam, the path ran into it and the tide is, it was too risky to try and cross in the dark.
Keeping in under some bush to shield myself from the wind, I sat down in the water and mud. I opened my back pack and took out my wet mini sleeping bag. Propped up against the bush I wrapped myself in it, trying to keep out the light drizzle. Closing my eyes I tried to sleep, all I wanted to do was sleep. Slowly the cold crept in; once again I began to shiver. In the back of my mind was the constant fear of hyperthermia, if it set in i’ve had it.
Every now and then there would be a little up draught of warm air, where was it coming from, I sat pondering. Finally I worked it out, the swamp water. Should I risk what the swamp had in it ,I needed the warmth. Which was the worse of two evils, cold or bugs? I crawled out under the bush and to the mangrove, putting my foot in, yes it was warmer. I slid into the swamp, it was like a Luke warm bath from the ocean water, but every time it rained, the cold current would mix in again. I put my sleeping bag on the bank behind my head and must have passed out for a bit.
I awoke with a startle, spitting profusely and chocking on something buzzing around the back of my mouth. In my exhorted state, I must of fallen asleep mouth agape and some large insect saw the gap. Managing to avoid swallowing the manic buzzing monster I expelled the air of both lungs, managing to blast it into orbit, coughing and spluttering I staggered around in the swamp which was now starting to empty with the tide, just as the first strip of dawn light was painted across the horizon, light and warmth were now only minutes away.

Out to sea

admin — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 07:37:00 +0000

It was now dark, the going was near impossible. The rain had started again and I was basically stumbling and sliding around in the dark. Blinded by insects in my headlamp light and eaten alive by mosquitoes, attacking my face and ears all the time. Insect repellent did not help as the rain just washed it off. But my legs were the worst, they were been hammered by something I was coming out in bumps all over. I was only managing about 2 km and hour, was it worth it was it worth the risk. Should I stop?
Then once again I heard the roar of water in the darkness, my heart sank. As I got closer, I could see the water starting to build up. I shone my light ahead, there was just a massive reflection of wild water everywhere, I could hardly see to the other side. I would have to sit this one out. I retreated to high ground and sat down, contemplating my next move, it was 1-30 in the morning. The longer I sat the colder I go in my wet gear, I had to keep moving. Eventually I began to shiver, there was a bit of fear setting in, hyperthermia was brewing. There was no help anywhere, I had to do something. So I decided to try the river, the rain had stopped for quite some time, I had to get warmth in my body. My brother Glenn had been phoning me constantly, keeping me motivated and warning me of the conditions I was heading into. I had lost signal, he tried about 20 times to call, his last 2 sms read( which I only received afterwards)
“Now don’t take any chances with the rivers, a big storm is brewing, rather sit it out- get back safe” the next one “Are you awake and running”
Slowly I edged in, but it just got deeper, eventually waist high it stopped and I waded into the current, foot by foot I edged in. The darkness seemed to trap me; I had no real idea of what was going on around me except what was in the beam of my head lamp. Trying hard to control my panic and fear I edged across. The water was tugging at my legs, every now and then debris would hit me or something would entangle around my waist. I took another step, but this time my foot never grounded, the water was now just too strong and it swept it away, with this I over balanced and over I went, twisting swirling down with the current I was swept.
Trees were hitting me from every side; I was totally disorientated as I bobbed up and down trying to stay afloat. My rucksack had now filled with water and was pulling me down, my cameras , phone everything destroyed The thoughts began to flash through my mind, mixed with panic, fear and the instinct to fight the current, do I dump my back pack. There was nothing I could do, to fight back would exhaust me and I would drown, I had to think and quick, I only had seconds, as the next fear was waterfall.
Trees just flashed by as the river now began to twist, every now and then my light would catch the bank, if I could somehow hit the trees on the bank, I would have a chance, but which bank was it. I only had the energy left for one attempt as it would take all my strength to get out of this.
Suddenly there was a blinding pain as my ribs crunched into something, branches were every where, I began to grab blindly, but everything just broke as it was rotten, as I twisted away I gave one last lunge and got hold of something supple. I rolled over and grabbed with my other arm, straightening my legs to create less drag in the current I pulled myself into the tree, wrapping both my arms around a bigger branch I lifted one leg up and wrapped it around it. My back pack was now creating massive drag in the current and was pulling me down, if a branch caught it I would not have the strength left to fight back. That would be it I would be washed out to sea in the storm.
With one massive last ditch heave I managed to roll over and up onto the branch, there I clung, winded and exhausted, just inches above the cauldron of flood water.
I thought out aloud and shouted into the darkness “Please, please I have got to somehow get out of here”

Flash floods

admin — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 07:36:38 +0000

I have become so used to rain on this journey. Running in the monsoon season, this was expected, but not in the volumes that I had seen. Never have i experienced so much water in such a short space of time. With months of rain, the soil is totally saturated, it can’t absorb a drop more. When the rain comes, it just stand in pools and they grow and grow until they finally all join up and the flooding begins. Within half and hour raging rivers will form from nowhere , you just hear a roar around you and here the mass of swirling red water comes with rocks and trees
I had been running for half and hour, the rain had been relentless and with a driving wind it had now become too slippery to run any more. I was just sloshing through the water, trying to keep on the cattle track. I could see the build-up of massive pools everywhere. It was a matter of time and this was going to all join up and then all hell was going to break loose. 3 times I had already slipped and fallen; the going was really difficult in the sheeting rain
The rivulets began to form, and in no time the path was a raging torrent of water, whenever I hit a double track, it became a river. Debris was beginning to be picked up by the water as it began to gain momentum. Large logs were being tossed down the track and all the danger signs were there. I had a slight uneasy feeling as every valley crossing became more and more dangerous as the water level grew. How many more crossings were there as the area was really mountainous? What was going to happen in the low lying and swamp areas?
It was now late afternoon the light was already fading, my gear was soaked through and my back pack probably weighed and extra 2kg with the wet gear. All I had in my mind was “I have got to get through the worst before night falls”. Then the night mare happened. I hit a huge valley, I could hear the cascading water, the first flooding had started. From where I was I could see a split in the river higher up.If I moved quickly, I might still have time to cross before it got too bad. I headed for this, my best crossing point. It was nearly at a point that I could not cross the foaming white water, but managed to claw myself over clinging to trees and branches. There was a real sence of fear creeping into me, things were just escalating to a point that it was out of control. I moved on into the next valley, that was it. There was no way over it was just a mass of water and debris. I slid and clawed my way down with the gushing water to the river edge, that’s as far as I can. I will have to sit this out. I found a fairly sheltered spot from the wind and sat down to eat and survey my options as the rain slowly petered out. After about 2 hours dusk was creeping in and I managed to get across and keep moving.

Madness takes its toll

admin — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 07:36:21 +0000

For months it’s been a battle to get the driver to leave the road to meet up with me, or even to drive 100 meters into the bush to a decent camp site. The thought seemed to send into a sweaty frenzy of fear at what might lurk there. So bad is his fear, that for the entire journey he has slept in the 4×4. Some days it would bake in 40% sun, as night falls, in he would get, close all the windows, and lock the doors and sauna the night away.
The second last day of the island run seemed to suddenly bring on new energy and bravery as well as a desire to drive to the end of the island, where no road existed, one would need and amphibious craft to get there . The intent was strong. Rounding a bend I heard the scream of tyres on rock and the whine of a revving engine. There I saw the massive land cruiser with its tail hanging over a bridge, one back wheel on rocks, and the belly flat on the bridge and front wheels just managing to scratch away at the mud, much like a tortoise stuck on a stone. He and the co driver were trying some insane stunts to get it off, the driver never once gets out to see what’s happening , just sits there, foot flat on the gas shouting instructions as the vehicle slowly revs and screams in a motion looking like he is try to rock himself to sleep.
“Don’t try and give any advice”
Finally after some 10 minutes, I heard the vehicle behind me, some miracle must have happened. On he went, passing me with a wave and a yeh yeh I can do it look as he clenched the steering wheel grated his teeth and headed on down the muddy road. The hills were now rolling and I could see swamps appearing in the distance, kms in length, large stretches of mud were visible as the tide was out, a beautiful sight of mangrove trees and thousand of dead sticks protruding catching the morning light. In the distance I could see someone walking the swamp, waving as he went. I looked again; it was the co driver, what he was doing there. A rather unusual sight. Then it hit me, No I screamed, he was waving the driver on. I ran up behind him shouting don’t don’t, All I got was the royal wave as he revved the beast and headed into the massive muddy mangrove swamp.
He hit the mud at full speed, shooting a rooster tail of slush behind him, sliding left and right he skidded across the mud in semi circular curves he cut his way in deeper and deeper, slowly loosing momentum as he spun his way to glory finally he beached the whale. But alas no. he did not stop at that. He continued the rev and dig his way in. If that was not enough, the reverse lights went on and he continued to dig the vehicle in until its belly was nice and firmly resting in the mud. He had now turned his home into a house boat

The great trek

admin — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 07:35:09 +0000

I had not much of an option; the end of the island was 68 km away. There were no roads. No way of any support to get back. I would have to push to the end, and then turn around and push all the way back again. It would be a 136 km round trip. I decided to go light and do it in one go through the night and get it over with. I packed minimal gear that I was light enough to run. No tent, a thin lightweight sleeping bag, rain jacket, tin of tuna (hoping to get food along the way) cameras for the end and a French loaf.
I left the crew to some how get there problem sorted, I had tried to warn them, but no it was there decision to drive the land cruiser into the swamp. I suggested they get some villagers to help by chaining some Zebu cattle together and try and pull it out. I could not stand around; I needed to get to the end of the island. (They ended up in getting 8 cattle and 20 villagers and it took then 6 hours to get it out, the tide was coming in and water was flowing in the door when they finally got to safety)
I headed off; a massive storm was blowing in as I crossed the swamp. Quite heavy with gear, but light enough to run. Over the next 36 hours what was to unfold was a nightmare, so often when one finishes a massive event and you let your guard down to return home, the problems hit. I have heard this happen so many times especially on Everest trips.

Deago Suarez

admin — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 07:34:34 +0000

A port town on the wind swept North west coast, set up for sea trade. Populated with a tapestry of different looking folk who through the ages made it here by sea. There are signs of beautiful architecture every where, quaint buildings, winding streets, a real feel of energy. Like every city on this island, time has taken its toll, and the lack of basic maintenance has left the town with a distinct feeling of decay. Every where there are tempory structures that have be come a permanent part of the landscape, life just goes on at a manic pace but nothing seems to evolve with it. Things look chaotic to an outsider, but living here and understanding the system, thing actually happen
It was late afternoon and I left the town through the back door and out towards the final destination, Cap D’ Ambre, the end of the island. Winding roads lined with shacks for about 2 km led me to the outskirts and into the open spaces, only to be hit with a shock and stench that was nauseating. Entering a beautiful river valley, there was a few km of an open dump site, where the town’s trash was strewn everywhere, an uncontrolled festering time bomb, feeding the river into the ocean
I finally got 10 km out of town and sanity returned as I entered the natural beauty of forested hills. I could now feel the end was drawing me as I looked to the east I could see the island cutting in with bays, dotted with little island. The further I went the more beautiful it became. Massive mangrove swamps, little neat villages and fishing boats bobbed in the ocean. Some bays were lined with small strips of white sandy beaches, fresh cleat streams gurgled their way to the sea.
Of the whole journey, this peninsula holds some of the most stunning terrain of the entire run. Jungle baobabs, massive granite cliffs, draped in forest. Mountain ravine after mountain ravine running into pristine little bays each with its own island. The ocean calm and just heaving up and down as if it was drawing a breath.

What are we looking for?

admin — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 11:36:58 +0000

Every time I embark on a journey, I have questions, about my life in some way, i am always out there looking for answers, in a way yes. What better place than out there on your own, hours and hours to look within search and question. I started on my first journey and this seems to have been the beginning of a process, a search for some thing that I felt was missing in my life. In a way maybe a selfish search, but it was a yearning to go out and through this make a difference in my life, the life of those around me and a group of children that I had come into contact with .
I came back from china, so much had happened to me, and for the first time I actually knew and realised as and individual that in order to move on I had to change. In many ways. Not just say it I had to do it. It’s a long hard slow process and I thought it would be easy. Far from that as it is so much easier to go back to the way that you were. I have been constantly reminded by people, especially my children how slow the process is and that I have to really work hard at it and actually change.
Then I left for my run around South Africa and this journey took the process further and I began to question myself again, why change what is the reward for change. After travelling that coastline, and seeing what was going on around my country I knew that it was worth it, as through change, we hope that the future will hold something better for us, that is the reward, and as an individual we will be in a better position to enhance the lives of those around us.
There are still so many factors that are at play in our lives, the biggest being the circumstance that we find ourselves in on a daily basis. The decisions that make in these situations will ultimately give us the answer that we are looking for, have we managed to change, are we able to see that our actions will bring hope to those around us that we will be able to enhance their lives in the future.
Circumstance has plagued the Madagascar trip; time and time again I have been forced to make hard decisions, decisions that kept on testing me time and time again. Making me ask myself have you changed? No I was struggling with the process; i feel that I had not managed to cope with a crucial element of it. I feel that a fundamental part of change as an individual is the ability to look beyond yourself. Look at things from another person’s perspective and not at how you would like it to happen. Take their feelings, lives, needs into consideration, they might not be what you want, but it’s their life it what they want it is the things that are important to them. I think if you can accept this and support it even if you don’t always feel you agree, “Give life a chance”. I feel I have managed the process of change.

Regaining sanity

admin — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 11:36:22 +0000

Early morning light slowly twists and nudges its way between the branches and leaves of the forest canapé. Bending rolling and squeezing its way between the tree trunks. Finally it manages to penetrate through and a beam, bounces off the ground cover, exploding into misty particles, each little drop of energy bringing life to the lower reaches of the forest. With this the world comes alive, there is an orchestral buzz as every bird and insect begins to celebrate the birth of yet another morning.
A soft breeze rolls through the branches, soft and delicate to the touch, not disturbing any thing, but just breathing on the leaves as they flicker and wriggle shaking off the dew like little butterflies stretching their wings . With this soft draft the smells of the forest are activated and mixed, adding the final dimension to this world.
As you walk through the forest you can feel this tranquil peaceful world that has envelope you. My mind just floats with the sights and sounds of this almost surreal world. For hours and hours I can trundle the forest paths admiring the beauty and perfect co existence of every creature and plant.
My only place to regain my sanity from the mayhem and madness of this island

Chameleon

admin — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 11:35:50 +0000

Of all the creatures on this island, the chameleon has taken my fancy. Graceful, patient draped in colour with an aura about it. In a way to me it is so vulnerable, yet so wily and wise and with a bit of attitude.
There are over a dozen different species on the island and I have had the pleasure of seeing most of them. Difficult to spot, but once you do they really turn on the charm and make a show of things. Slowly they will waltz down a branch as if it were a modelling ramp, draped in their best wash of colour. On hitting the end they will slowly take a bow, turn around , change colour, normally getting darker and head back into the thick of the tree, every now and then twisting an eyeball back 180, just to check that you are still looking. If not, it will twist its head back and open its mouth revealing a bright red and yellow flash of sunset tones just to attract attention as it winds it tail around a branch and proceeds to do a snail pace bit of acrobatics to the branch below, sometimes missing it totally and nearly dropping out the tree in slow motion.
Coming in all sizes, they chill out in the bushes along the paths where dragonflies whiz up and down, at manic gyroscopic speeds. The beady eye watches as it makes a few passes and then splat , that long sticky tongue rockets out and neatly plucks it from the sky, retracting with lightning speed as the jaws close, trapping the insect. Then the eyes seem to do a 360just to check if it actually caught it, as the jaw slowly chews away with wings hanging out at each corner